Mont Maudit, France

Waking dream or Kuffner Arete?
Wex walks it either way on Mont Maudit.
photo: Chris Wright

Trident du Tacul

Splitter stone and warm sun
at almost 12,000' on La Diretta.
Photo: Chris Wright

Mont Blanc, France

A few more steps into the light and to the ceiling of Europe.
Photo: Chris Wright

Aiguille Verte

Dane runs the ridge to the summit
of the Petite Aiguille Verte with
the Drus looking on behind.
Photo: Chris Wright

Mont Blanc Massif

Morning light on the Midi and the
Chamonix Aiguilles from high on
Mont Blanc.
Photo: Chris Wright

Aiguille du Midi, France

Who says alpine climbing has to mean suffering?
Marc steps through the S-Cracks on the Rebuffat
Route with the Vallee Blanche behind.
Photo: Chris Wright


An evening view from the deck -
it doesn't take long to understand
why Chamonix is Chamonix.
Photo: Chris Wright

Aiguille Verte

Michal finds the meaning of
alpine climbing on day one of a
snowy Arête Grand Montets.
Photo: Chris Wright

Grand Capucin

High, perfect, and splitter. Nearing the
top of the Voie des Suisses.
Photo: Chris Wright

Tour Glacier, Chamonix

Big glacier, small people. A party
heads towards the Petite Fourche
as the Chardonnay looks on.
Photo: Chris Wright

Cosmiques Arête

Climbers on the classic finger crack
pitch of the Aiguille du Midi's
Cosmiques Arête.
Photo: Chris Wright

Trient Hut, Switzerland

One of the best parts about
the Alps are the huts, and
the front porch of the Trient is
hard to beat. The climbing is
pretty good too.
Photo: Chris Wright



There can be no doubt that the Alps, the very namesake of the alpine world, are one of the great homes of mountain climbing. For those who haven’t been, it hard to really appreciate the scale, diversity, and quality of the climbing and mountain culture the Alps have to offer. We all know a few peaks – Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, the Eiger – but those are only a few of literally thousands of alpine summits. Spanning nearly half of Europe, the opportunities are endless. Each summer I make my home in Chamonix, France, center of it all and the beating heart of the alpine climbing world, and invite climbers to join me in the alpine playground of the Mont Blanc Massif.

Like much of the Alps, the Chamonix area is renown for short approaches, great weather, and immaculate stone. With routes ranging from mellow ridge runs to technical cracks and faces, soaring alpine ridges, snow, ice, mixed – anything you an imagine – the towering spires of the Mont Blanc Massif are the birthplace of alpinism. A short lift ride into the mountains and you’ll be blown away. Nowhere else in the Alps can you find such a concentration of high-quality climbs so closely grouped and with such unparalleled accessibility. With its location directly below the Chamonix Aiguilles and the Mont Blanc, Chamonix is deservedly famous. There is simply nowhere else where one can step out of the patisserie and ride a lift ninety-three hundred vertical feet into the high mountains.

At the heart of Chamonix’s climbing is stunning lineup of towers and spires home to some of the most iconic and adored routes in the world. The Frendo Spur on the Aiguille du Midi, the Kuffner Arête on the Mont Maudit, the Supercouloir and Geravasutti Pillar on the Mont Blanc du Tacul, the Arête Grands Montets on the Aiguille Verte, the Arête Rochefort, Walker Spur, Droites, Courtes, Jorasses – the list goes on and on. Needless to say, there is enough climbing to satisfy any climber for any amount of time.

And because these are the Alps, almost every objective can be accessed from either a lift or a high mountain hut. Make no mistake – these peaks are high and wild, but the opportunity to climb such fantastic climbs and still go home to a bed and a hot meal each night is one that is unique to the Alps, so don’t miss out on the opportunity to live the dream of the mountains without the need for tents or heavy packs.

In addition to the Mont Blanc Massif, I also regularly guide trips in the surrounding areas of Italy’s Aosta Valley (Gran Paradiso and Pilastro Lomasti) and Bregaglia (Piz Badile) regions, as well as the Bernese Oberland (Eiger, Jüngfrau, and Monch), Zermatt’s Matterhorn and other four-thousand meter peaks (Breithorn, Monte Rosa, Ober Gabelhorn, etc.). There’s so many climbs it would be impossible to list them all, but there’s a good chance I’ve done them or would love to do them with you, so let me know and I’ll look forward to seeing you in the Alps.


June-October, 2016


Chamonix, France


1:1 $525/day*

2:1 $275 pp/day*

*Clients are responsible for hut fees and expenses on overnight programs.